• Home
  • Latest
  • Fortune 500
  • Finance
  • Tech
  • Leadership
  • Lifestyle
  • Rankings
  • Multimedia

Trendingnow

1

Jeff Bezos wants the bottom half of earners to pay zero income tax—he says nurses making just $75K should save $12K a year

2

Indeed chief economist says we’re entering an era of ‘great mismatch’ thanks to a generational imbalance of workers

3

Apple’s Steve Wozniak says he cofounded the tech giant after 5 rejections from HP—not to ‘make money.’ For years, his paycheck was just $50

1

Jeff Bezos wants the bottom half of earners to pay zero income tax—he says nurses making just $75K should save $12K a year

2

Indeed chief economist says we’re entering an era of ‘great mismatch’ thanks to a generational imbalance of workers

3

Apple’s Steve Wozniak says he cofounded the tech giant after 5 rejections from HP—not to ‘make money.’ For years, his paycheck was just $50
Retailchief executive officer (CEO)

How Ulta Beauty’s new CEO plans to beat back increasingly aggressive rivals

Phil Wahba
By
Phil Wahba
Phil Wahba
Senior Writer
Down Arrow Button Icon
Phil Wahba
By
Phil Wahba
Phil Wahba
Senior Writer
Down Arrow Button Icon
December 1, 2021, 7:00 PM ET
Ulta CEO Dave Kimbell
Ulta CEO Dave KimbellCourtesy of Andrew Collings

Ulta Beauty has been one of retail’s biggest growth stories of the last few years, defying the so-called retail apocalypse and doubling sales and store count in the last seven years.

That success came under former CEO Mary Dillon and it’s a tough act to follow for her successor and former top lieutenant David Kimbell. But Kimbell, who at Ulta has overseen marketing and merchandising before taking the reins in June and been a key architect of Ulta’s ascent, has a plan to keep Ulta’s red-hot trajectory going. That involves tapping into its proven ingredients for success and updating them for today’s market, while stepping gingerly into new territory such as wellness and ad sales.

“We really feel that we are poised to bring the future of beauty,” Kimbell tells Fortune. “We’re in a healthy, exciting category.”

But it’s also a hyper competitive one. And it only promises to become more so. Ulta’s archrival Sephora, a unit of LVMH, is opening shops at hundreds of Kohl’s stores, which unlike the mall-based J.C. Penney stores that used to host them, go head-to-head with Ulta in the nation’s strip malls. Beauty brands are trying to increase the percentage of sales coming from their own websites and stores, and department stores and drugstores are starting to fight back after years of losing market share to Ulta.

Kimbell, who early in his career worked in Procter & Gamble’s sprawling beauty business, is unfazed, saying, “It has been competitive for a long time now.” Still, that is forcing Ulta to update is winning playbook.

Wall Street analysts estimate Ulta will take in $8.3 billion this fiscal year, according to Bloomberg, up from $3.2 billion when Kimbell followed Dillon to Ulta. (They had worked earlier at U.S. Cellular where she was CEO, and long before that at PepsiCo when they were rising marketing stars.) And store count has grown from 774 to 1,300 locations.

To achieve that kind of growth, Ulta tapped into something simple that eluded other retailers: having a broad mix of products up and down the price spectrum in cosmetics, skincare and hair care, presenting them in a fun way that lets shoppers try them without a sales associate on their case, and offer salon services under one roof.

So far, Wall Street has faith in Ulta and in Kimbell’s plan. “We continue to view Ulta as one of the best COVID-19 recovery stocks in retail given the lack of social gatherings, mask mandates, and the elongation of work/learn-from-home, while it still has a market-leading platform,” J.P.Morgan wrote in a research note in October.

Kimbell, 54, told investors Ulta was gunning for 5% to 7% growth per year through 2024. While that is lower than its torrid pace of the pre-COVID past, it is roughly double the beauty market’s growth. In addition, Kimbell plans to open 50 more stores a year net of those Ulta closes. All this means he is planning to win more market share and not just ride the $100 billion beauty industry’s continued growth. A few years ago, Dillon, now executive chairman, had said Ulta’s market share would double to 7% within a few years, a pledge she delivered on, and one on which Kimbell is seeking to build. “We’re still just 7% of a massive, growing, dynamic, innovative and creative category that gives us lots of opportunities,” he says.

Winning more market share

To become even more dominant, Ulta plans to keep adding more new brands, including doubling the number of brands catering to Black women in a belated move to serve an underserved but thriving market, and joining the pledge to have 15% of their assortment be by Black owned businesses. The retailer now carries 600 brands, up from 300 or so seven years ago. And Ulta, which only a few years ago saw potential for 1,000 stores, now sees room for as many as 1,700 locations, including some in a newer, smaller format, despite how big a share of its sales come online now. (That doesn’t include the mini Ulta stores within hundreds of Target locations opened this year that has given it a wide, new audience.)

“We are firm believers in the future and future importance of physical retail,” he says. “Yes, digital is key and digital drives our total experience, but the magic of Ulta Beauty comes to life in our 1,300 stores.” And the smaller stores it is testing, one-third the size of a regular Ulta, will allow it to enter smaller markets.

Gabby Jones—Bloomberg/Getty Images

Another big plank in Ulta’s future: an even bigger slice of the market’s high-end products, “prestige” in industry parlance. Ulta has made huge strides since the days high-end brands eschewed the strip mall stalwart. But the long struggles of department stores like Macy’s and even Neiman Marcus along with Ulta’s proven ability to sell, have removed any stigma, paving the way for it to sell high end brands like Chanel. At the same time, don’t expect Ulta to ditch the mass side of the market, even though it is growing more slowly. That would mess with Ulta’s secret formula, Kimbell says.

“Going back to our founding, one of the insights was that most people don’t just buy prestige or mass, they don’t just buy haircare,” says Kimbell. In fact, much as consumers are doing with vintage and luxury clothing, they are mixing and matching beauty products from all price ranges.

At the same time, Kimbell sees opportunity for Ulta to find new revenue streams. One of them is its “Wellness Shop” areas, which he says is a logical extension given how well Ulta does in skincare. That ranges from spa products to deodorant to vitamins and even women’s products in a category it calls ‘down there care.’ Another is a service for advertisers, launched last week, called UB Media that uses Ulta’s data, enhanced by its massive loyalty program, to help brands place their ads in the optimal places and manner, whether on sites like Ulta’s or on a social media like Instagram. Ulta is also ramping up its tech with partnerships such as a new one Google to use AI to offer virtual try-on effects for lipstick and eyeshadow.

“So as we’ve been doing for 30 years, we will not sit still. And we are continuing to innovate and finding new ways to delight our guests.” Kimbell says.

Subscribe to Fortune Daily to get essential business stories straight to your inbox each morning.

About the Author
Phil Wahba
By Phil WahbaSenior Writer
LinkedIn iconTwitter icon

Phil Wahba is a senior writer at Fortune primarily focused on leadership coverage, with a prior focus on retail.

See full bioRight Arrow Button Icon

Latest in Retail

Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025

Most Popular

Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Fortune Secondary Logo
Rankings
  • 100 Best Companies
  • Fortune 500
  • Global 500
  • Fortune 500 Europe
  • Most Powerful Women
  • World's Most Admired Companies
  • See All Rankings
  • Lists Calendar
Sections
  • Finance
  • Fortune Crypto
  • Features
  • Leadership
  • Health
  • Commentary
  • Success
  • Retail
  • Mpw
  • Tech
  • Lifestyle
  • CEO Initiative
  • Asia
  • Politics
  • Conferences
  • Europe
  • Newsletters
  • Personal Finance
  • Environment
  • Magazine
  • Education
Customer Support
  • Frequently Asked Questions
  • Customer Service Portal
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms Of Use
  • Single Issues For Purchase
  • International Print
Commercial Services
  • Advertising
  • Fortune Brand Studio
  • Fortune Analytics
  • Fortune Conferences
  • Business Development
  • Group Subscriptions
About Us
  • About Us
  • Press Center
  • Work At Fortune
  • Terms And Conditions
  • Site Map
  • About Us
  • Press Center
  • Work At Fortune
  • Terms And Conditions
  • Site Map
  • Facebook icon
  • Twitter icon
  • LinkedIn icon
  • Instagram icon
  • Pinterest icon

Latest in Retail

t
RetailEconomics
The market keeps winning. Most Americans are losing faith
By Stan Choe and The Associated PressMay 23, 2026
1 day ago
James Daunt sits in a booksop, gesturing with both hands and smiling.
AIbooks
Barnes & Noble CEO clarifies the bookseller’s stance on AI-written books after refusing to ban them: ‘This is a straightforward rejection of AI books’
By Sasha RogelbergMay 22, 2026
2 days ago
Walmart shoppers are filling their gas tanks with less than 10 gallons for the first time since 2022, and its CFO calls it ‘an indication of stress’
EconomyRetail
Walmart shoppers are filling their gas tanks with less than 10 gallons for the first time since 2022, and its CFO calls it ‘an indication of stress’
By Marco Quiroz-GutierrezMay 22, 2026
2 days ago
trump
EnvironmentWhite House
Trump reverses grocery, air conditioning pollution regulations because they’re too woke
By Matthew Daly and The Associated PressMay 21, 2026
3 days ago
target
Retailearnings
Target posts biggest jump in comparable sales in 4 years as turnaround takes shape
By Anne D'Innocenzio and The Associated PressMay 20, 2026
4 days ago
Variational co-founders Edward Yu and Lucas Schuermann pose for a picture
CryptoCryptocurrency
Variational raises $50 million Series A to bring liquidity from traditional markets to blockchain rails
By Jack KubinecMay 20, 2026
4 days ago

Most Popular

Jeff Bezos wants the bottom half of earners to pay zero income tax—he says nurses making just $75K should save $12K a year
Success
Jeff Bezos wants the bottom half of earners to pay zero income tax—he says nurses making just $75K should save $12K a year
By Preston ForeMay 21, 2026
3 days ago
Indeed chief economist says we’re entering an era of ‘great mismatch’ thanks to a generational imbalance of workers
Success
Indeed chief economist says we’re entering an era of ‘great mismatch’ thanks to a generational imbalance of workers
By Emma BurleighMay 22, 2026
2 days ago
Apple’s Steve Wozniak says he cofounded the tech giant after 5 rejections from HP—not to ‘make money.’ For years, his paycheck was just $50
Success
Apple’s Steve Wozniak says he cofounded the tech giant after 5 rejections from HP—not to ‘make money.’ For years, his paycheck was just $50
By Preston ForeMay 22, 2026
2 days ago
Uber CEO says rideshare 'freed up' his son from having to get a driver’s license—and he's one of many Gen Zers who aren’t willing to drive
Lifestyle
Uber CEO says rideshare 'freed up' his son from having to get a driver’s license—and he's one of many Gen Zers who aren’t willing to drive
By Sasha RogelbergMay 24, 2026
9 hours ago
Microsoft reports are exposing AI's real cost problem: Using the tech is more expensive than paying human employees
AI
Microsoft reports are exposing AI's real cost problem: Using the tech is more expensive than paying human employees
By Jake AngeloMay 22, 2026
2 days ago
Bolt CEO says he let go of his entire HR team for creating problems that didn’t exist: ‘Those problems disappeared when I let them go’ 
Workplace Culture
Bolt CEO says he let go of his entire HR team for creating problems that didn’t exist: ‘Those problems disappeared when I let them go’ 
By Preston ForeMay 19, 2026
5 days ago

© 2026 Fortune Media IP Limited. All Rights Reserved. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy | CA Notice at Collection and Privacy Notice | Do Not Sell/Share My Personal Information
FORTUNE is a trademark of Fortune Media IP Limited, registered in the U.S. and other countries. FORTUNE may receive compensation for some links to products and services on this website. Offers may be subject to change without notice.