• Home
  • Latest
  • Fortune 500
  • Finance
  • Tech
  • Leadership
  • Lifestyle
  • Rankings
  • Multimedia
Commentary

Why parmesan cheese may cease to exist in America

By
Nicola Persico
Nicola Persico
and
Nicola Scocchi
Nicola Scocchi
Down Arrow Button Icon
By
Nicola Persico
Nicola Persico
and
Nicola Scocchi
Nicola Scocchi
Down Arrow Button Icon
June 4, 2015, 11:52 AM ET
86495443
Parmesan cheese with graterPhotograph by Getty Images

As the European Parliament continues to negotiate a trade deal between the U.S. and European Union, a key issue to watch concerns a concept called geographical indications (GI) — that is, how the names of foods and products from specific regions are derived. These names are viewed as non-tariff barriers, which matter because they are the last significant friction in international trade, which the Transatlantic Investment Partnership treaty aims to lower.

The EU is fond of being sticklers for naming their foods a certain way, the US not so much. For example, in Europe parmesan cheese can only be marketed as Parmigiano Reggiano if it is produced in the Reggio Emilia area. Cheeses that are very similar in taste and texture, but are not produced in that geographical area must find themselves another name; this is why in Italy parmesan cheese is also available under the less exclusive (and cheaper) brand Grana Padano. In the US, by contrast, anyone anywhere can produce parmesan cheese and market it under that name.

The difference between these two legal regimes is significant. The EU system pinpoints a product, such as parmesan cheese, and makes it into a brand. This makes it difficult for competitors to introduce a competing product, and thus protects incumbents. Economic theory suggests that this would prop up prices. At the same time, quality can be expected to be maintained high because, with few authorized producers, nobody has an incentive to dilute quality.

The U.S. approach, by contrast, allows anyone to market their cheese as parmesan. This encourages competition and keeps a lid on prices. On the other hand, quality may well suffer especially if cheese makers end up competing in the price dimension. Which approach, the EU or the US one, is better depends on the circumstances.

Among EU countries, Italy is the one with the greater number of GI-recognized brand (beside Parmigiano Reggiano, think Prosciutto di Parma, Chianti Classico, Mozzarella di Bufala Campana, Mortadella Bologna, etc.). Italian producers are so fond of the GI protection that they have come up with a new, broad concept of counterfeiting: “italian sounding.” According to the Italian Ministry of the Economy, brand names that sound Italian cannot be utilized by foreign producers. Following this novel doctrine, one congresswoman recently raised in Parliament the concern of “italian-sounding” counterfeiting with regards to Parrano cheese.

Parrano is a cheese that tastes like Parmesan and has the consistency of Gouda. It is produced by a Dutch company, it is marketed in the US, and it is delicious. However, the name has clearly been chosen to evoke Parmigiano. Congresswoman Alessandra Terrosi took issue with that, and asked the Italian government to intervene. The government answered that they were exploring diplomatic channels. We do not know the outcome of this diplomacy.

The Parrano cheese case highlights another important consequence of the EU’s broad approach to brand name protection. If Congresswoman Terrosi were to prevail and the name Parrano was deemed illegal, then a supermarket customer would not be able to guess that this cheese tastes very similar to Parmigiano. This would presumably hurt sales. Thus, a socially useful innovation (soft parmesan cheese, finally!) would be discouraged.

EU producers view the TTIP as an opportunity to extend the GI (and maybe even “italian-sounding”) principle to the US. The US will likely resist this push. The negotiations are ongoing. While the final outcome is difficult to predict, the stakes are high for many producers – and for consumers, too. If the EU’s position prevails, US customers may find Parrano cheese and many other goods to be suddenly unavailable.

Nicola Persico is a professor at Northwestern University’s Kellogg School of Management and Nicola Scocchi is an Accredited Parliamentary Assistant in the European Parliament. This article constitutes the personal opinions of Nicola Scocchi and Nicola Persico and not the one of their employers.

About the Authors
By Nicola Persico
See full bioRight Arrow Button Icon
By Nicola Scocchi
See full bioRight Arrow Button Icon

Latest in Commentary

Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025

Most Popular

Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Finance
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam
By Fortune Editors
October 20, 2025
Rankings
  • 100 Best Companies
  • Fortune 500
  • Global 500
  • Fortune 500 Europe
  • Most Powerful Women
  • Future 50
  • World’s Most Admired Companies
  • See All Rankings
Sections
  • Finance
  • Leadership
  • Success
  • Tech
  • Asia
  • Europe
  • Environment
  • Fortune Crypto
  • Health
  • Retail
  • Lifestyle
  • Politics
  • Newsletters
  • Magazine
  • Features
  • Commentary
  • Mpw
  • CEO Initiative
  • Conferences
  • Personal Finance
  • Education
Customer Support
  • Frequently Asked Questions
  • Customer Service Portal
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms Of Use
  • Single Issues For Purchase
  • International Print
Commercial Services
  • Advertising
  • Fortune Brand Studio
  • Fortune Analytics
  • Fortune Conferences
  • Business Development
About Us
  • About Us
  • Editorial Calendar
  • Press Center
  • Work At Fortune
  • Diversity And Inclusion
  • Terms And Conditions
  • Site Map
  • Facebook icon
  • Twitter icon
  • LinkedIn icon
  • Instagram icon
  • Pinterest icon

Latest in Commentary

powell
CommentaryMiddle class
Forget the K-Shape: We have a barbell economy—and the middle class is buckling under the weight
By Katica RoyJanuary 14, 2026
9 hours ago
engineer
Commentaryengineering
China graduates 1.3 million engineers per year, versus just 130,000 in the U.S. We need AI to bridge the gap
By Paul Eremenko and Ashish SrivastavaJanuary 14, 2026
12 hours ago
powell/trump
CommentaryFederal Reserve
Is Powell’s Fed head independence dead? Trump outfoxes himself this time
By Jeffrey SonnenfeldJanuary 13, 2026
2 days ago
paramount
CommentaryM&A
A cautionary Hollywood tale: the Ellisons’ lose-lose Paramount positioning
By Jeffrey Sonnenfeld and Stephen HenriquesJanuary 12, 2026
3 days ago
Walken
Commentarybeverages
Molson Coors CEO: We’re doing our part to solve society’s ‘occasion problem’ – and we’re getting some unexpected help
By Rahul GoyalJanuary 12, 2026
3 days ago
AsiaChina
What global executives need to ask about China in 2026
By Joe Ngai and Jeongmin SeongJanuary 11, 2026
3 days ago

Most Popular

placeholder alt text
Success
Despite his $2.6 billion net worth, MrBeast says he’s having to borrow cash and doesn’t even have enough money in his bank account to buy McDonald’s
By Emma BurleighJanuary 13, 2026
1 day ago
placeholder alt text
AI
'Godfather of AI' says the technology will create massive unemployment and send profits soaring — 'that is the capitalist system'
By Jason MaJanuary 12, 2026
2 days ago
placeholder alt text
Personal Finance
Peter Thiel makes his biggest donation in years to help defeat California’s billionaire wealth tax
By Nick LichtenbergJanuary 14, 2026
8 hours ago
placeholder alt text
Future of Work
'Microshifting,' an extreme form of hybrid working that breaks work into short, non-continuous blocks, is on the rise
By Nick LichtenbergJanuary 13, 2026
1 day ago
placeholder alt text
Economy
Goldman Sachs top economist says Powell probe won’t change the Fed: 'Decisions are going to be made based on employment and inflation'
By Sasha RogelbergJanuary 12, 2026
2 days ago
placeholder alt text
AI
Being mean to ChatGPT can boost its accuracy, but scientists warn you may regret it
By Marco Quiroz-GutierrezJanuary 13, 2026
1 day ago

© 2025 Fortune Media IP Limited. All Rights Reserved. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy | CA Notice at Collection and Privacy Notice | Do Not Sell/Share My Personal Information
FORTUNE is a trademark of Fortune Media IP Limited, registered in the U.S. and other countries. FORTUNE may receive compensation for some links to products and services on this website. Offers may be subject to change without notice.