If you’re a brand like Omega, the Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch” is not something you tinker with without serious thought and consideration. The watch—so-called because it was the first watch certified by NASA for spaceflight and was on the wrist of Buzz Aldrin when he set foot on the moon—has undergone just a handful of major revisions in its more than five decades in space.
The Speedmaster model itself was introduced in 1957, intended for use in timing racing events, hence the name. Featuring Omega’s manually wound Caliber 321 chronograph movement, it underwent significant modifications in its first five years before being submitted to NASA for spaceflight certification in 1962—along with contenders from Rolex and Breitling. But only Omega won the contract after passing stringent bench testing under extreme conditions.
The Apollo 11 watches were 1967 models that featured the Caliber 321 movement, and these are among the most sought-after Speedmasters by collectors today. But by the time of the launch, Omega was selling the Speedmaster Professional with a modified version of the 321 movement called the 861, which swapped the expensive and finicky column-wheel actuator for a simpler cam and lever system.
The 861 and its successor, the 1861 movement, would power the Moonwatch and be strapped to astronauts’ wrists all the way through the next 50 years of spaceflight—until now. For 2021, Omega has given the Moonwatch a thorough upgrade with its Caliber 3861, a master chronometer certified movement with a coaxial escapement.
What does that translate to for the wearer? Exceptional accuracy. To be certified as a master chronometer, a watch must not lose a second in 24 hours and can gain only five seconds in the same period. Over the course of the week Fortune spent with the new Speedmaster Professional, the watch gained just four seconds. It must also resist magnetism to 15,000 gauss, making it essentially nonmagnetic for most real-world applications.
Other changes include a “stepped dial” and off-white markers that bring some vintage charm to the piece without going too far into cheesy “fauxtina.” But most significantly, Omega has upgraded the Moonwatch’s bracelet—a minor knock against older models—to one that is handsome, supremely comfortable, and feels sturdy enough to take a beating.
Moonwatch purists will be pleased that the watch retains its domed Hesalite crystal as found on the NASA watches, while buyers of a modern persuasion can opt for the more scratch-resistant sapphire crystal for an additional charge. (Sapphire models also come with a display caseback to admire the new movement; Hesalite versions do not.)
And for fans of precious metals, Omega has made the Moonwatch available in both white gold with a silver dial ($45,300 on bracelet) and rose gold with a black dial ($34,800 on bracelet).
With the new 3861 Moonwatch, Omega has deftly balanced the tastes of Speedmaster diehards with those who want the latest and greatest in timekeeping technology. It isn’t a giant leap in the world of horology, but it is a small step that keeps the Speedmaster modern and relevant, while still capturing the romance of those Apollo mission timepieces.
The Omega Speedmaster Professional costs $6,300 in steel on steel bracelet with Hesalite crystal, and $7,150 in steel on steel bracelet with sapphire crystal. Both available now from Omega boutiques and authorized dealers.
