Think of bronze, and you might think of the metal used to make statues, hardware on old ships, or third-place medals in the Olympics. It’s not a material you might associate with fine watchmaking.
For one thing, it’s a very reactive metal. An alloy of predominantly copper, with usually tin or other metals added, bronze is prone to oxidization that makes its surface darken and change over time. And because of that high copper content, it can even turn green depending on the exact alloy used, and the environment to which it is exposed.
But some watchmakers are leaning into that very nature of bronze and are creating pieces that will be intrinsically linked to the wearer and their experiences. Every dip in the ocean, every hike on a humid day will leave their patina on the case. (Though don’t worry about the green wrists associated with cheap jewelry; watchmakers use bronze with high aluminum content, which keeps the coppery properties in check.)
It’s not a look for everyone. And it’s definitely one that evokes tarnished marine equipment, hence why many watchmakers are using it for diving watches. But bronze watches are ones that will gracefully age and take on the romanticism associated with vintage watches, instead of using ersatz aging techniques, also known as fauxtina.
The three watch brands leading the charge in this new bronze age are Tudor, Oris, and IWC. And the following three examples prove that bronze watches are more than just a gimmick.
Tudor Black Bay Bucherer Blue
Originally released in 2017 and sold only through European watch retailer Bucherer, the Tudor Black Bay “Bucherer Blue” edition takes the brand’s Black Bay Bronze and outfits the dial and bezel in the retailer’s signature color.
The 43mm case is slightly larger than its steel brethren, and the three-, six-, and nine-hour markers are a unique touch for the bronze models. It has a commanding wrist presence, and a noticeable heft, without dwarfing this writer’s 7.5-inch wrists. It’s not a subtle watch, but it doesn’t scream bling in the same way a gold-cased diver would. Less Saint-Tropez mega-yacht, more snorkeling at secluded beach further down the coast.
The good news is you won’t have to travel to Europe to pick one up. It’s now available in the United States through watch retailer Tourneau, which was acquired by Bucherer in 2018.
Price: $4,150 on woven fabric or distressed leather strap.
Oris Carl Brashear Calibre 401
Carl Brashear was the first African-American diver in the U.S. Navy, who rose to the rank of master diver in 1970 despite having had his left leg amputated four years prior. His story brought about the 2000 Cuba Gooding Jr. movie Men of Honor and still inspires divers today.
In honor of the man, who died in 2006, and in partnership with the Carl Brashear Foundation, Oris has created the Carl Brashear Calibre 401. It’s the third such collaboration with the foundation that was started by Brashear’s two sons and the most successful in its execution.
It shares a similar 40mm case to the brand’s Divers Sixty-Five line, except in a very warm, almost honey-colored bronze. Under the hood is the Oris in-house calibre 401, a modification of its calibre 400 movement. It features twin mainspring barrels, high levels of antimagnetism, and five days of power reserve. And it’s all set to run within -3/+5 seconds a day, higher than chronometer standards.
Price: $4,200 and limited to 2,000 pieces
IWC Spitfire Chronograph
For those more likely to be found 1,000 feet up in the air than 100 feet below the ocean is the IWC Spitfire Chronograph in bronze. Named for the iconic Royal Air Force fighter plane, the Spitfire Chronograph features the brand’s self-winding 69380 chronograph movement with a day and date display.
Its numeral hour markers and broad sword-style hands are extremely legible, even on the small sub registers. And its 41mm bronze case, green dial, and brown calf-leather strap complement a piece that’s begging to slide under the cuff of a shearling bomber jacket.
Price: $6,500